Start with the fibre, not the colour

When you are choosing fabric for a new pair of curtains or a reupholstered armchair, it is tempting to fall for a print or a shade first. But the fibre underneath the pattern decides how the piece will age, how it will feel in five years, and what happens to it when it finally wears out. A metre of conventional polyester velvet may cost less at the till, but it sheds microplastics with every wash, holds onto cooking smells, and will sit in landfill for centuries.

Natural fibres are not automatically sustainable. How a crop is grown, how the fibre is spun and dyed, and how far it travels all matter. Still, they are a far better starting point than synthetic alternatives, and the four below are the ones I specify most often for British homes.

Linen: the cool, forgiving classic

Flax grows well in northern Europe with rainfall alone, needing little irrigation and few pesticides, and it is often used in rotation to improve soil. The resulting cloth is breathable, gets softer with every wash, and handles our damp summers and stuffy winters with equal grace.

For curtains, look for a weight of around 190 to 260 gsm. Unlined linen gives a relaxed, slightly rumpled look that suits a kitchen or a bedroom in a period property. For a drawing room or a bay window, line it in cotton or cotton and bamboo to add body, protect the fabric from sunlight and improve insulation. For upholstery, choose a heavy linen of 300 gsm or more, or a linen blended with a little cotton for strength. Check the rub count: 20,000 Martindale cycles is fine for a spare bedroom chair, but a family sofa wants 25,000 or more.

Yes, linen creases. That is the deal, and most of us learn to love it.

Hemp: tougher than it looks

Hemp is one of the fastest-growing fibre crops around. Its deep roots break up compacted soil, it crowds out weeds, and it needs very little water. The fabric has a slightly rustic hand at first, but it softens beautifully with washing and steaming, and it is remarkably resistant to abrasion and UV fading.

It is a wonderful choice for Roman blinds, cushions and bench seats, where a bit of texture earns its keep. For upholstery, a dense hemp canvas takes years of use without going shiny. Hemp blends particularly well with linen or organic cotton, which brings a softer drape while keeping the durability. Natural shades of oat, sage and undyed grey sit happily in almost any scheme, and they hide everyday marks far better than pale cotton.

Wool: the quiet overachiever

Wool regulates temperature, resists spills, springs back into shape and is naturally flame-resistant, which is why it has been the backbone of British upholstery for generations. Look for wool from British or European flocks, and consider recycled wool blends for a lower-impact option with all the same performance.

For sofas and chairs, aim for a wool-rich weave with a rub count of 25,000 to 30,000 cycles. A tight weave resists pilling, and a felted or heavily milled wool is almost indestructible. Do check that your chosen fabric meets UK furniture fire safety requirements, and ask the supplier for the paperwork before you commit.

Wool also makes superb curtain interlining. It keeps warmth in, softens traffic noise and gives even a modest face fabric a generous, tailored drape. To keep moths at bay, vacuum regularly with a brush attachment and air pieces outdoors when the weather allows.

Recycled cotton: character with a past

Recycled cotton is spun from cutting-room offcuts and worn garments that would otherwise be discarded. It saves an enormous amount of water compared with growing virgin cotton, and it keeps usable fibre in circulation. Most recycled cotton is blended with a small percentage of virgin cotton or polyester to give the yarn strength, so ask what the mix is.

It is ideal for loose covers, cushion covers, lampshades, piped trims and Roman blinds. Choose a heavy, tightly woven version with a high rub count if you want it on a busy sofa. Colours often come in soft melange tones, and naturally dyed batches vary, so order everything you need in one go and check the shade against your scheme before cutting.

Practical choices that keep fabric out of landfill

• Order samples and live with them for a week. Watch how they behave in morning light, how they crease, and whether they pill under a thumbnail.
• Ask for the rub count on upholstery and the gsm on curtain fabric, and get it in writing.
• Choose natural linings and interlinings. A beautiful wool face over a synthetic lining rather undermines the point.
• Buy the full quantity at once, plus an extra metre or two for future repairs and re-covered cushions.
• Vacuum curtains every few months, blot spills immediately, and wash less often and at lower temperatures. Airing does more good than most people expect.
• Plan for the end. Natural fibres can be recycled or composted, so check what your local textile recycling accepts before you throw anything away.

Choose well and the fabric will outlive the trend that inspired it. A linen curtain that fades gently over a decade, or a wool sofa that simply needs new covers in fifteen years, is a far better investment than something replaced every third spring. Sustainable interiors are not about doing without. They are about buying things that quietly get better with time.